LCI Barcelona to honour Paris fashion museum director with Felicidad Duce prize

The exhibition "Azzedine Alaïa, couturier collector" at the Palais Galliera. Balenciaga and Jeanne Lanvin. Credits: F. Julienne



LCI Barcelona’s fashion school Felicidad Duce will be honouring Miren Arzalluz, art historian, curator and currently the director of Palais Galliera, the fashion museum of the city of Paris, as per a press release sent out by the school. Arzalluz will receive the Felicidad Duce prize on December 18.


The Barcelona design school is recognising the curator for her contribution to the fashion sector and her importance internationally.


Miren Arzalluz was born in Bilbao and studied history in her native Basque country, and later comparative politics and the history of costume in London.

She later wrote the book ‘La forja del maestro’, or ‘the forge of the master’ about Cristóbal Balenciaga and the role he occupied in the history of fashion.


The art historian has been working in the world of fashion for over 15 years. Before being named director of Paris’ Palais Galliera in 2017, she was responsible for the collection and exhibitions at the Cristóbal Balenciaga Foundation for seven years.


Under her mandate, highly successful exhibitions have been held in the Paris fashion museum, such as ‘Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto’, which opened at the beginning of the pandemic, and ran until 2021.


Miren Arzalluz, director of the Paris fashion museum to receive award at LCI Barcelona




There was also Azzedine Alaïa, couturier and collector, with Alaïa's hitherto unpublished heritage exhibition, which takes us back to 19th century fashion to learn about its beginnings.


Previous winners of the prize include Balenciaga’s Pablo Coppola, Spanish fashion designer Teresa Helbig, and Jean-Paul Gaultier.


The jury for LCI Barcelona’s Felicidad Duce prize 2023 includes: Estel Vilaseca, head of the Felicidad Duce fashion school at LCI Barcelona, fashion consultant at Unseentrends and deputy editor at the Spanish magazine Vein Magazine, Lucia Alcaina, fashion designer, trend forecaster and cultural and innovation theorist as well as president of this year’s jury Charo Mora, a journalist, professor, curator, researcher and fashion consultant.


"To be able to create frameworks for dissemination and reflection with a critical view of the history and sociology of fashion is of vital importance in order to enhance the value of the discipline," Estel Vilaseca, head of the LCI Barcelona fashion school and jury member said in a statement.


She continued: "Miren Arzalluz's contribution to this, first as an expert on Balenciaga, and currently at the helm of one of the museums specialising in fashion, is undeniable."


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Gucci: New chief industrial and supply chain officer comes from Prada

Credits: Gucci



Massimo Vian has moved from the Prada Group to Kering. Vian, who most recently served as chief operating officer for Italian fashion house Prada, has been appointed to the newly created role of chief industrial and supply chain officer at the Florentine luxury label Gucci. According to the industry magazine WWD, he will take up his new position on January 15, 2024.


In his new role, Vian will report directly to Gucci chief executive officer Jean-François Palus and will be responsible for the development and manufacturing of the brand's leather goods, footwear, ready-to-wear and jewellery, as well as overseeing product allocation processes across Gucci's various sales channels.


Most recently, he was chief operating officer at Prada for almost three years, a role he initially took on in 2020 following his short stint as chief executive officer at the cashmere brand Falconeri.


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Pucci to show its next collection in Rome

Pucci Vivara print Credits: Pucci website



Florentine fashion house Pucci is to show its next collection in Rome, on April 4th. The brand, best known for its kaleidoscopic prints, will present its "Very Vivara" collection by artistic director Camille Miceli.


Ms Miceli, who assumed the creative reins of the LVMH-owned brand in 2021, has been instrumental in reigniting a modern path for the heritage house. Founded in 1947 in Florence by Emilio Pucci, the Marquis of Barsento, Pucci has left an indelible mark on the fashion industry with its signature fluid fabrics, silk scarves, and vibrant prints.


The Vivara print, Pucci’s distinctive pattern, was initially introduced by Emilio in 1965 and inspired by the undulating waves of the sea. It will also take center stage in the forthcoming "Very Vivara" collection.


Pucci stands as a trailblazer among European brands, being among the pioneers to adopt the American concept of sportswear—an ethos centered around the pursuit of comfort. Over time, this innovative approach, coupled with an inherent appreciation for beauty and opulence, has indelibly shaped the brand's legacy.


Pucci's enduring impact is epitomised by the distinctive prints that not only garnered Emilio Pucci the moniker "The Prince of Prints" but also encapsulate his unique fusion of functionality, style, and luxury.


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Christmas shoppers forecast to "panic spend" 3.31 billion pounds this weekend

Shoppers forecast to spend 3.3` billion pounds before Christmas Credits: Analyticalways



Retailers are anticipating a 3.31 billion pound boost during ‘Panic Weekend’ (16-17 December), with only 12 days remaining until Christmas.


New insights into UK consumers' festive shopping habits have surfaced, offering a glimpse into the dynamics of the last full weekend before the holidays.


The "Shopping for Christmas Report: The build up to Christmas and Boxing Day sales" by VoucherCodes.co.uk discloses projections for a substantial spending spree, with Christmas shoppers expected to invest 3.31 billion pounds this weekend on last-minute gifts, food, and beverages.


Key Statistics from the report





* 3.31bn pound expenditure forecast, reflecting a 15.3 percent YoY increase.

* Anticipated participation of 38 million people shopping both in-store and online over the weekend.

* ‘Super Saturday’ poised to generate 1.76bn pounds in sales, making it the most lucrative day in the Christmas lead-up.

* ‘Stampede Sunday’ projected to witness 1.55bn pounds in spending over the day.






The Shopping for Christmas report indicates an optimistic outlook for retailers, projecting a huge surge in spending during this year’s ‘Panic Weekend,’ attributed to factors such as inflation and the timing of Christmas. With the event occurring a day earlier this year, retailers gain an additional day to attract consumers, with an estimated 38 million shoppers anticipated, marking an increase of 3.8 million from the previous year.


‘Super Saturday’ (16th Dec) is expected to be the pinnacle of sales activity, reaching 1.76bn pounds. High-street foot traffic is predicted to comprise 12.7 million shoppers, contributing to a spending total of 1.15bn pounds, a 19 percent YoY increase. Concurrently, 6.8 million consumers are projected to engage in online shopping, contributing £0.61bn to the digital sales landscape.


On ‘Stampede Sunday’ (17th Dec), in-store spending is forecasted to reach 0.86bn pounds, involving 10.3 million shoppers. Simultaneously, online spending by 8.2 million consumers is estimated at 0.68bn pounds. Collectively, Sunday 17th is poised to be the second-highest spending day of the week, totaling 1.55bn pounds.


Michael Brandy, Senior Commercial Director at VoucherCodes.co.uk, comments: “This year has been particularly tough for retailers so it’s great to see there’s going to be one more boost to sales before the end of the year.


“With sales forecast to increase by an enormous 15.3% year-on-year and customer numbers set to increase by 10.5% over the weekend, both online and offline retailers should brace themselves for a last-minute festive rush.


“To see the biggest rewards over ‘Panic Weekend’, retailers should prioritise convenience and value above all else. Consumers only have a few days left before Christmas to pick up their festive essentials so by putting popular gifts, food and drink in pride of place and offering discounts on these items retailers will be able to encourage extra sales and create a loyal customer base.”


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LVMH to establish sustainability initiative for its suppliers and partners

Antoine Arnault at the LVMH LIFE 360 Summit Credits: Philippe Servent



LVMH this week held its LIFE 360 Summit at UNESCO, where it shared the luxury group's achievements and future initiatives under its LIFE 360 program launched in 2021. Attended by prominent figures like chairman Bernard Arnault, Christophe Béchu (French Minister for Ecological Transition and Cohesion of the Territories) and Virginijus Sinkevičius (European Commissioner for the Environment, Oceans and Fisheries), the event marked the culmination of the program's 2023 commitments across various environmental aspects.


One of the most forward thinking plans is a new initiative supporting its suppliers in reducing carbon footprint, water impact, and biodiversity impact. As part of its LIFE 360 Business Partners plan, the program aims to make suppliers true partners in LVMH's environmental transition, fostering collaboration and shared solutions.


In a statement the group said in line with the call for greater collaboration between companies in the luxury sector that Antoine Arnault made last June at the Fashion Summit in Copenhagen, other key changemakers in the industry, in particular Chanel, Pernod Ricard, Martell Mumm, Perrier-Jouët, came together at the LIFE 360 Summit in a panel discussion entitled Joining Forces. "Given the acute urgency of the environmental situation, LVMH believes that we can only overcome the challenges if we work together, uniting the private and public sectors, scientists, NGOs, and peers."


Other highlights from the summit include:


Creative Circularity




LVMH said it met its 2023 target for creative circularity by establishing a repair-and-care task force in several Maisons, exemplified by Louis Vuitton's repair of 600,000 products annually. Additionally, the group introduced LVMH Circularity, fostering partnerships for fabric and leather reuse and recycling.


Biodiversity




Having regenerated 1.37 million hectares by 2022, LVMH aims to reach five million hectares by 2030. Initiatives include regenerative agriculture programs globally and partnerships with NGOs like FAS in Brazil. A water efficiency plan targets a 30 percent reduction in overall water consumption by 2030.


Climate




The group reduced greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions by 11 and 15 percent between 2019 and 2022, decoupling emissions from growth. Achievements result from eco-design, energy efficiency, and transport programs. An exceeded target of 10 percent energy consumption reduction affirms commitment.


Traceability & Transparency




The company said it is on track to achieve its 2023 target of knowing the countries of origin for strategic raw materials, reaching 95-100 percent for diamonds, wool, and leather. The group deploys new traceability tools, and its certification rates have significantly increased over two years.


Strategic Partnerships




LVMH continues its partnership with UNESCO's Man and the Biosphere program, focusing on biodiversity promotion programs and data collection for impact measurement. Collaborative efforts with other luxury stakeholders emphasize shared auditing checklists and schedules.


Acknowledging the challenges ahead, LVMH said it was confident in meeting 2026 and 2030 targets, reinforcing its action plan for virgin fossil-based plastics.


Perhaps the most notable target the group has set is working with other suppliers and businesses to reduce the global environmental impact as collaborative effort. These efforts to engage with suppliers, offer training and sharing solutions mark a significant step forward.


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Lush commits 10.6 million pounds to retail network

Lush Covent Garden pop-up. Credits: Lush.



Cosmetics giant Lush has said it is projected to spend 10.6 million pounds on UK stores ahead of the new year, as it continues to strengthen its retail network and improve existing shops.


The commitment is an eight million pound increase on the company’s previously announced investment in FY23 for the UK.


A significant part of the investment was Lush’s opening in Glasgow City, where the retailer took over a 20,000 square foot space with a new anchor store spanning five floors, with an additional to follow in 2024 housing a Lush Spa.


Other store openings included locations in Kingston Upon-Thames, Teeside, Aberdeen and London’s Covent Garden, where Lush is first hosting a festive pop-up before plans to expand in the upcoming spring.


In a release, Lush’s head of retail stores for the UK and Ireland, Kasey Swithenbank, said: "We know that physical retail spaces contribute to lasting memories. There are certain times throughout our lives that require physical retail, the purchasing of a wedding dress, buying your child's first pair of shoes, going out shopping with friends for the first time as a teenager.


“At Lush, we're committed to creating spaces that contribute to our customers being able to create lasting memories with their friends and family and our blend between traditional retailing and experiential retailing highlights this."


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H&M sees net sales increase for FY23

H&M Stockholm store. Credits: H&M



Fast fashion giant H&M Group has said that its net sales for the 2023 financial year, spanning December 1, 2022, to November 30, 2023, increased by 6 percent, compared with the year prior.


This amounted to 236.014 million Swedish krona (18.08 million pounds). Russia and Belarus were excluded from this total, yet the group reported that in this region sales rose 8 percent in krona and 1 percent in local currencies.


For the fourth quarter of the year, covering September 1, 2023, to November 30, 2023, net sales were flat in comparison to the same period last year, coming to 62.629 million Swedish krona (4.8 million pounds).


The results were similar to that of its third and second quarters, when the group also reported “flattish” results and said that the increase in sales came despite reduced purchasing power and unfavourable weather conditions.


In Russia and Belarus, the increase was 3 percent in SEK, yet in local currencies, a decrease of 1 percent.


In total, H&M said net sales fell 4 percent in local currencies.


The company noted that these figures were provisional, and may deviate from the full-year report set to be published January 31, 2024.


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Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy named Yeezy head of design

Yeezy x Adidas slider. Credits: Yeezy.



Gosha Rubchinskiy, a Russian designer and former Adidas collaborator, has been named the new head of design for Kanye West’s fashion brand Yeezy.


To make the announcement, West made a rare reappearance on X – formerly Twitter – revealing that Rubchinskiy was to take up the new role immediately.


The statement continued: “The arrival of this legendary Russian designer at Yeezy, the pre-eminent global brand in music and fashion, is a milestone in design history.”


The revelation comes after a quiet period for West, who had his ties with the fashion industry severed after he made a series of anti-semite remarks and publicly called out various partnered brands on allegations of not adhering to contracts, among other controversial moves.


As a result, West saw his deals with Balenciaga, Vogue, Adidas and Gap cancelled, resulting in substantial financial losses for the rapper and leading him to pursue other opportunities in a bid to revive his label.


The choice of Rubchinskiy appears to be part of such attempts. The designer has worked with the likes of Burberry and Levi’s, alongside operating his own eponymous label founded in 2008. He has also collaborated with Adidas on a number of projects.


The designer shared further details of his impending role at Yeezy on his own Instagram account, which stated that the company was “set to embrace exciting new projects and collaborations that embody [its] spirit of independence and creative drive”.


As a result, Rubchinskiy said he would be introducing a new direction for his own brand, stepping away from the Comme Des Garcons and Rassvet family, who he had previously been associating and collaborating with, to forge a new path.


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Chrono24 names Zalando’s Carsten Keller as CEO

Carsten Keller, CEO of Chrono24. Credits: Zalando.



Global marketplace for luxury watches Chrono24 has announced that former Zalando executive Carsten Keller will take over as chief executive officer, effective January 1, 2024.


Keller will succeed co-chief executive’s Tim Stracke and Holger Felgner, who are handing over the reins to “unlock the next phase of growth” for Chrono24.


Stracke said in a statement: “While the decision hasn’t been easy, Holger and I always knew that we would eventually need to find a successor to lead Chrono24 into the next phase of growth. Carsten’s expertise in the luxury industry and with fast-paced online marketplaces as well as his experience in the leadership team of a publicly traded company make him a one-in-a-million candidate to unlock the next chapter for Chrono24. We are very excited to witness all he will do.”


Chrono24 taps Zalando executive Carsten Keller as chief executive officer




Over the past eight years, Keller has been instrumental in building Europe’s leading marketplace for fashion brands and retailers at Zalando, contributing more than 5 billion Euros to the platform's overall gross merchandise value. As a part of that, Keller also founded Zalando’s Connected Retail venture, enabling more than 7,500 offline retailers to sell their goods online.


Stracke and Felgner will remain key shareholders and continue to support the company as active members of the board, which Stracke will lead as its chairman.


Deven Parekh, managing partner at Insight Partners and investor in Chrono24, added: "The board is indebted to Tim and Holger for their exceptional leadership and invaluable contributions, which have been pivotal to Chrono24’s success.


“Taking over at the helm, Carsten is undoubtedly the best possible successor. He is a proven leader, a great cultural fit, has strong business vision and the ability to bring people together. His perspective on the global future of the luxury industry aligns perfectly with Chrono24's needs as we embark on a new phase of further product innovation and growth."


Chrono24, founded in 2003, offers new, used, and vintage watches and has over 530,000 watches from more than 35,000 professional retailers and private sellers. The platform attracts an average of 9 million users globally per month, shopping in 22 languages.


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Designerwear secures ‘six-figure’ investment

Designerwear secures ‘six-figure’ investment from River Capital. Credits: River Capital.



Designer apparel e-tailer Designerwear International has secured a “game-changing six-figure investment” from the North West Business Growth Loan, managed by River Capital.


With the funding, the Lancashire-based company said it would bolster its rapid expansion and establish partnerships with leading designer brands.


Founded in 2015 by Ben Wallington, Designerwear has seen a 90 percent growth period in 2022, and currently operates a 16,000 square foot warehouse.


Putting to use the latest cash injection, Wallington said that he plans to boost sales revenue, improve supplier terms, increase margins and create up to five new jobs.


In a release, the managing director said: “The funding provided by Jim and the River Capital team will enable us to move to the next level with our expansion plans and to grow our customer base, revenue and brand portfolio in the mens and womens premium online space.”


Jim Moore from River Capital added: “The future looks phenomenally bright for Designerwear International. With the financial fuel to match their limitless ambition, there’s no telling what the business could achieve.


“When the fund was established, it was done so to create and safeguard jobs within the North West and Ben’s plans to create up to five indicates their commitment to doing just that. We now look forward to following the next part of their journey and offering support along the way.”


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LVMH appoints Claire de Coincy as head of human resources at holding company

The Louis Vuitton store on the Champs-Élysées in Paris Credits: LVMH



French luxury goods group Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) has appointed Claire de Coincy as human resources director of its holding company with immediate effect. The human resources expert most recently worked as HR director at the fashion house Chloé.


In her new role at LVMH, she will determine the holding firm's human resources strategy and continue to drive forward the change that has been taking place at the company and among all of its employees for several years, the group said in a statement on the business platform Linkedin.


“I am pleased to welcome Claire to the group’s human resources team,” Chantal Gaemperle, LVMH’s executive vice president of human resources and synergies, said in a statement. “I know that with her wealth of experience and diverse skills, she will support and accelerate important projects that continue to gain momentum.”


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Etsy to cut 225 jobs amid internal reorganisation

Credits: Etsy



Marketplace platform Etsy has said it will be scrapping 11 percent of its workforce, equating to around 225 jobs, amid an ongoing reorganisation of its internal structure.


The announcement was made by the company’s chief executive officer, Josh Silverman, who said in an open letter that the shift was an attempt to “more closely align [Etsy’s] resources with [its] most important business priorities and better serve [its] customers”.


Silverman penned the decision down to the “challenging macro and competitive environment” the company is currently facing, as well as the flat gross merchandise sales (GMS) that have remained unchanged since 2021, resulting in less sales for sellers.


He also noted that employee expenses had grown despite the introduction of cost-cutting measures and a pause on hiring, leading to an unsustainable trajectory.


Looking ahead to the new year, Silverman said that a “Vital Few” projects and initiatives have been outlined in order to bolster growth, centred around a “leaner, more agile team” with a simple and efficient structure.


Next to this, Silverman also announced some changes to his executive team, each to come into effect from January 1, 2024.


Among them, Nick Daniel is to take on payment and fulfilment functions in the product division, while Raina Moskowitz was to expand her role as chief operating officer and marketing officer following former CMO Ryan Scott’s departure.


Additionally, Kim Seymour will be stepping down from the position of chief human resources officer, and will be succeeded by Etsy’s current VP of global people and talent strategy.


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Item of the week: the statement choker

(From left) French Connection, Na-kd, Agent Provocateur.
Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace.

What it is:



While commonly linked to trends prevailing in the 90s and 00s, the choker
necklace’s origins actually span back hundreds of years, with Anne Boleyn
often understood to be the first documented individual to be portrayed in a
painting wearing such a necklace. Since then, the choker has rarely
fluctuated in popularity, and has instead been an accessory item that has
adapted according to the time period, seeing it take on many forms. Now,
the piece has experienced yet another resurgence, becoming the necklace
style of choice for SS24, this time appearing in bold shapes and sizes
making it a stand-out statement.

Moschino. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace.


Why you’ll want it:



Chokers were framed as the must-have accessory for SS24, appearing on an
array of runways in statement shapes and adorned with bold embellishments.
Their prominence underlines the foreseeable future for these necklace
types, as they are thrust back into the limelight for consumers that are
either exploring the trend as a new venture or returning to it with
nostalgia. The bold styles that swept the runway are a perfect way to
reintroduce the piece for new and older audiences that are looking for a
daring item to take them into the holiday seasons and build on their
fashion-forward wardrobe.

Guess. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace.


Where we’ve seen it:



One choker style that really had its heyday for SS24 utilised fabric to
make a flower shape along the neck. Brands like Christian Cowan and Ulla
Johnson did just that, while Keqiao and Pedro Del Herrio also put fabric to
use albeit in alternating ways. Oversized beading was another popular
choker style, present on the runways of Stella McCartney, Zimmermann and
Emilia Wickstead, where eye-catching designs drew looks together. Laquan
Smith, on the other hand, summoned up the world of 70s sci-fi films with
its own take on the choker, a ribbed metal piece that traversed the neck.

Hunkemoller. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace.


How to style it:



With statement chokers, the wearer can allow the piece to speak for itself,
using it as a way to tie a simple look together to elevate an outfit
effortlessly. This means the necklace can be paired with minimalist
garments, such as a little black dress or a pared down two-piece suit, each
of which will immediately be stepped up a notch when a statement choker is
added. For maximalists, however, don’t be afraid to take the statement one
step further. Bold prints that potentially match the necklace’s colourway
or contrasting textures that diverge from the choker’s own are good ways to
amp up the volume.

Madewell. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace.


Choker necklaces are making a big come back for SS24, in more ways than one
– the other being size. Scaled up, highly embellished or with bulky
beading, this accessory is here to make a statement for this season that is
loud and proud.

Madewell. Credits: FashionUnited Marketplace.




Similar items available for (pre)order can be found in the FashionUnited
Marketplace. You can find
them by clicking on this link.


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How to use Pantone’s 2024 colour of the year: Peach Fuzz

Using Peach Fuzz main image Credits: Peach Fuzz main
image/Launchmetrics Spotlight


From the success of ‘Barbie’ to the naming of Taylor Swift as person
of the year, ‘soft power’ is gaining traction in culture and fashion.
This trend has paved the way for Pantone to declare ‘Peach Fuzz’ as
the colour of the year.
Laurie Pressman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute,
said that “Pantone 13-1023 Peach Fuzz is a cozy peach hue softly
nestled between pink and orange.”




‘Peach Fuzz’ represents the growing awareness that ‘soft power’ might
be a way to counteract the aggression and divisiveness currently
rendering society apart. Pale shades of pink and peach have been
transformed from a color reserved for baby girl clothes and
bridesmaid’s dresses, to become a symbol of feminism and the strength
of women in society.

Pantone 2024 Color of the year: peach fuzz Credits:
Courtesy: Pantone
Tracing the Trend




Around 2016, ‘millennial pink’ grew to become a popular colour among hip
20 and 30-somethings. It was strongly marketed as a colour that was
both gender-neutral and trans-seasonal. Even male rappers like
Cam’ron, Drake and Jay-Z embraced the color.
Recent seasons have shown how versatile a peachy pink tone can be.
Here are some examples of fabric, print and colour combinations.



Victoria Beckham fw23

Victoria Beckham fw23/ look 10 Credits: Victoria
Beckham fw23/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 10: a floor-length paneled satin dress with a bow and pearl
button details with a long train in peach and nude platform pumps.


Erdem Moralioglu Resort 24

Erdem Resort 24/ look 14 Credits: Erdem Resort
24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 14: a ruffled tea dress with two prints: an orange and green
floral on a peach background and a peach and cream dot pattern.
Emerald green satin slingbacks completed the look.


Thom Browne Resort 24

Thom Browne Resort 24/ look 37 Credits: Thom Browne
Resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 37: a two-piece shorts suit and rubber booties in peach with
white stripes, and a shirt, cardigan and socks with pale blue accents.


Frederick Anderson ss24

Frederick Anderson ss24/ look 8 Credits: Frederick
Anderson ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 8: a long chiffon dress in peach with a vegan leather bustier in nude


Carven ss24, designer: Louise Trotter

Carven ss24/ look 8 Credits: Carven
ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 8: a peach coloured satin-finish blouse and a nude-coloured
midi-skirt with a thin double belt also in nude, white slippers and a
green and white striped clutch.


Dennis Basso ss24

Dennis Basso ss24/ look 20 Credits: Dennis Basso
ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 20: a chiffon blouse with a peach, pale blue and cream print,
matching pants and neck scarf with a self-belt.
Accessories included silver sandals and pale blue larger earrings.


Dries van Noten ss24

Dries van Noten ss24/ look 50 Credits: Dries van
Noten ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 50: a seafoam-coloured blazer with a broad peach trim over a
chiffon blouse in very pale peach with teardrop paillettes in green
and orange with a sheer button-through skirt in green and orange
stripes. The look was finished with brown and cream patterned socks
and pearl-encrusted pumps.


Sunnei ss24: designers, Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina

Sunnei ss24/ look 14 Credits: Sunnei
ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 14: a sleeveless cotton trapeze style dress with three layers of
peach and white stripes with sneakers in the same colors.


Elisabetta Franchi ss24

Elisabetta Franchi ss24/ look 30 Credits:
Elisabetta Franchi ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 30: a peach-coloured two-piece suit including an oversized jacket
with peach fuzz satin lapels, pleated front cuffed shorts over a pale
peach button-down shirt and pewter metallic ankle boots.


Zegna: m ss24 designer, Alessandro Sartori

Zegna ss24/ look 13 Credits: Zegna
ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 13: a burnt orange slub silk Henley shirt with 3⁄4 sleeves and
satin pants in peach. The model carried an orange dopp bag and wore
brown shoes.


Denzil Patrick m ss24: designer, Daniel Gayle

Denzil Patrick ss24/ look 26 Credits: Courtesy:
Denzil Patrick ss24


Look 26: a peach-colored suit with a belted jacket under an orange,
chocolate, cream and brown colour-blocked windbreaker.


Chanel PreFall 24 designer, Virginie Viard

Chanel PreFall 24/ look 11 Credits: Chanel PreFall
24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


A peach-coloured tweed skirt suit with a DB jacket and a matching
peaked cap. A pearl choker and black Mary-Janes completed the look.


Stella McCartney PreFall 24

Stella McCartney PreFall 24/ look 43 Credits: Stella
McCartney PreFall 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight


Look 43: a cape sleeved floor-length dress with an asymmetric hem in
peach, trimmed with nude-coloured guipure lace.


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Luxury label to watch: vegan bags by Luckynelly

Vegan by Luckynelly Berlin. Model: Ayleen Tuncer. Credits: Marie Manoc for Luckynelly



Luckynelly is a slow fashion label that was founded in Berlin in 2012. All items are handmade and vegan and have already been seen on catwalks in New York, Paris and Berlin. FashionUnited spoke to founder Christine Rochlitz about sustainable material innovations, how Luckynelly was founded and the process, transparency and promises behind every item.


You have been experimenting with vegan material innovations for Luckynelly since 2012. Could you describe your motivation behind this and how the label came about?




As I have always been very interested in fashion, design, interiors, painting, colours, new trends and creating unique and exclusive things, I studied fashion design at Bielefeld University of Applied Sciences and successfully graduated and established my own brand Luckynelly in Berlin in 2012. The brand name is inspired by my beloved bearded collie Nelly and my rabbit Lucky. They were my muses and also inspired the decision to use only non-violent and vegan materials, thus doing away with animal skins, leather, fur, wool and others. Of course, this was also due to my great love of nature and animals, and to make the fashion world a little better and more sustainable. At that time, the label ‘vegan’ was still largely unknown in the fashion industry. That is why we see ourselves as visionaries and pioneers of vegan and sustainable luxury handbags.




Founder Christine Rochlitz and the inspiration behind the label - dog Nelly and rabbit Lucky. Credits: Marie Manoc for Luckynelly



These materials include strawberries, apples, coconuts, pineapples, cork and more. What is your favourite material and why?




When I came across cork, I immediately started using this great material for our collections because cork looks and feels like real leather and can even be embossed to look like real snakeskin or crocodile skin. It is also a sustainable and completely natural material. So cork is definitely one of my favourite materials. But there are still so many more innovative ecological vegan materials to find.



As an enthusiastic “material stalker”, many years ago I already discovered the most innovative ecological vegan materials in the world, such as sewable wood, sewable slate, Piñatex (made from pineapple fibres), Muskin (made from mushrooms), Malai (made from coconuts), Fruitleather Rotterdam, Desserto (cactus “leather”), washable paper, foldable ceramics that can be cut with scissors to make jewellery and Apple Skin (made from apple waste) for our brand, which are now used on a larger scale for fashion products.


My two Dutch professors, who supervised me during my studies, had previously worked with Li Edelkoort, probably the best-known trend researcher, and had always taught us that materials would be the trends of the next decades, as cuts and garments would always repeat themselves, trends of the 20s, 70s, 90s, the future. So I was already completely focussed on the use of special materials during my studies. For my degree, I screen-printed my own fabrics and developed and made my first bags.


You recently won the Green Product Award as the editors' favourite for your luxury handbag made from strawberries. How exactly is Berriestex made and do you plan for it to be used by other brands?

 


GPA winner made from Berriestex strawberry “leather”. Credits: Marie Manoc for Luckynelly




Yes, we were very pleased and very proud of this, as we developed this material ourselves. However, we have put the Berriestex material on hold for the time being, as we are currently working on the development of other exciting materials, such as Plantfur, a vegan fur material that is made from 100 percent plants and no plastic is used for it. Also “hair” made from 100 percent plants, with which I have just designed some handbags; one could also imagine a market for plastic-free hair extensions.


The composition of our material Berriestex is of course our trade secret, but it is made from overripe strawberries and combined with vegetable oils, waxes and resins to create this vegan “leather”.






Luckynelly also customises bags - what were the most unusual requirements you worked with? 





Probably the most unusual request was a small bag that I made from a banana leaf from a friend's garden. 



Each item is handmade and therefore time-consuming and labour-intensive. How much does one have to spend on a Luckynelly handbag?




Yes, that's right. It takes one to two days to make a Luckynelly handbag, but there is nothing I love more than creating new handbags and accessories and working with new exciting materials. Luckynelly is my heart and soul, which flows into every one of my bags. You can see and feel that.


Smaller accessories and bags cost around 150 to 350 euros, larger ones between 900 to 1900 euros, but they are made by hand to the highest quality and even the edges of the handbags are painted by hand.


A handbag from the big fashion brands often costs many times more than that and you don't know much about the production and transparency.


Some tags are 24-carat gold-plated. Credits: Marie Manoc for Luckynelly



For your sales model, you are focusing on a few select shops - Gallery Malina in Berlin and Flying Solo in New York City. What led to this decision?




We are a slow fashion brand and offer small, limited collections. Most shops and online stores want to sell as many items as possible, which is not our goal. In our price segment, this makes perfect sense. Our bags are unique and that is what our customers want, something that nobody else has or can have. We want to convey a sentimental value that can be passed down through generations, a very special product with history and heart. We are not a handbag shop, but a designer label and I make the bags myself as a designer.




Is Luckynelly distributed worldwide? Which markets are the strongest?




Germany and the United States, but we are also focussing on the Canadian and Australian markets and others.





What is your plan for the future - a new material, an appearance at a fashion show or a new product?






Our latest vegan and sustainable luxury designer handbag collection 2023/24 is made from tea - Wastea - Now Leather. This forward-thinking material is a re-upcycled alternative to leather from the tea industry and is 100 percent sustainable, vegan, plant-based and bio-based. The bags are designed by myself in our own studio/manufactory in Berlin, the patterns are created by myself and handmade with the utmost attention to detail and care.


The new Wastea collection by Luckynelly. Credits: Marie Manoc für Luckynelly



The shopper bag can be worn on two sides, for example, the black side with the design stripes or the other side, which is plain-coloured in “tea taupe”. Our Luckynelly - Berlin metal logo is attached to both sides, that is “to-wear-two-in-one”. Our Luckynelly “Co-Founders” pendant is also a key ring, and the strap of our new handbag “Ginger” can also be worn as a waist belt. Our round tags are also 24-carat gold-plated.


We are currently entering into many new partnerships with the most innovative material manufacturers and start-ups and are very much looking forward to working with many other new materials. We are also continuing to research plastic-free alternatives that are needed for the production of handbags such as edge colours, inlays, yarns, adhesives and others.


As you can see from our Instagram profile and our website, we are constantly creating new, unique, artful handbags and other accessories that have been featured in editorials in major fashion and art magazines around the world, such as Vogue, Elle, Harper's Bazaar, Cosmopolitan, Grazia, Glamour, L'Officiel and many more. We have been seen on the catwalks of New York Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week and have been featured as a sustainable designer brand at Berlin Fashion Week, as well as being featured in Forbes magazine.


The new luxury designer handbag in purple to blue cork with crocodile embossing, 24-carat gold-plated details and rainbow titanium metal fastening and lobster clasp. Model: Ayleen Tuncer. Credits: Marie Manoc for Luckynelly



This interview was conducted in written format.


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