Labels to Watch: Meet these four Colombian fashion brands showcasing the country's rich craftsmanship

Credits: Verdi



Within the framework of Bogotá Fashion Week, FashionUnited had the opportunity to get to know up close the talent of the creatives who presented their proposals, both in the Agora —which served as the main stage for business meetings, talks and fashion shows— and in parallel events that highlighted the artisanal roots of Colombia, showing how designers have reinvented their traditional influences.


In this context of fusion between the traditional and the avant-garde, national designers presented innovative creations that not only reflect the unique essence of Bogotá, but also bring freshness and diversity to the global fashion scene.


Below, we invite you to discover four textile and accessory proposals that stand out not only for their creativity and originality, but also for the stories and processes that sustain them.


Woma Hatmakers




Juliana Granados, designer and owner of Woma Hatmakers. Credits: Raul Higuera.



In a world dominated by mass production and automation, Woma Hatmakers is a Colombian hat brand that celebrates craftsmanship and tradition, offering pieces that are 100 percent handmade with techniques recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The brand collaborates with up to 1,500 artisans, professionals in century-old methods, who use materials such as Mawisa straw from the La Guajira desert, worked by Wayuu indigenous people following ancestral practices.


About Woma Hatmakers:




* Founder: Juliana Granados (2016).

* Presence: Colombia, Mexico, Spain, US, Kuwait and Barbados.

* Contact: sales@womahatmakers.com.co

* Prices: Approximately, from 450,000 Colombian pesos (about 115 dollars) to 676,400 Colombian pesos (172 dollars).

* Production: Colombia.






Woma Hatmakers. Credits: Raul Higuera.



Juliana Granados, designer and owner of Woma Hatmakers, founded the firm after specialising in Footwear and Accessories in Spain and working in the fashion industry for a while, during which time she learned from the inside the negative impact of the industry, leading her to reconsider her career.



“I was horrified by how damaging and exploitative fashion is to the environment. But I soon realised that I can choose to present myself in a way that honours both my values and my passion, and that sparked my journey into sustainable and ethical fashion,”
Juliana Granados, designer and owner of Woma Hatmakers



She decided to create instead a line of hats that honoured her values and passion for sustainable and ethical fashion, a project that has become an ongoing collaboration with artisans from the villages of Colombia, weaving their centuries-old knowledge with Juliana's contemporary design aesthetic, resulting in luxury products made entirely by hand.


“Colombia has a huge variety of natural fibers such as jute, cumare, toquilla, mawisa, maguey... which are native to different regions. These fibres are then hand-woven or hand-loomed, dyed and embroidered by artisans who have sustained this ancestral knowledge through time,” Granados explained about the processes.


Woma Hatmakers. Credits: Raul Higuera.



Committed to transparency, all Woma Hatmakers products include certificates of origin and workmanship, guaranteeing sustainable materials and a fair wage for artisans. In addition, production is limited to avoid overproduction and ensure safe working conditions in artisan communities.


Verdi




Verdi is a Colombian textile studio that celebrates tradition by creating unique contemporary pieces of homeware, fashion and art, intertwining natural fibers with contemporary materials such as copper.


About Verdi:




* Founder:Tomás and Cristina, children of Carlos Vera Dieppa (2010)

* Presence: It is mainly available on its website, as well as showrooms in Bogotá and Mexico and select boutiques around the world.

* Contact: aux.moda@verdi.com.co

* Prices: from 490 dollars.

* Production: Colombia.






Artisan crocheting one of Verdi's textiles Credits: Verdi



From Verdi's own workshop we learned how the artisans crochet their hero product: the ethnic mochilas of Colombia. This sack-type bag retains its original shape and name, but has seen its traditional materials and technique renewed. Each piece takes around 15 days to be woven and completed by the artisans.


Credits: Verdi



The team is currently made up of around 80 people, but Verdi's story dates back to 1995 in the mountains of Colombia, when Carlos Vera Dieppa, a pioneer in Latin American textiles, developed a unique weaving technique in collaboration with a local weaver, which was originally applied to fiber rugs. This technique evolved over time to incorporate metallic threads by the hands of his children, who recovered this legacy and, under a new brand concept, continue this artisan tradition that speaks of the essence, innovation and deep Colombian tradition.


Credits: Verdi



The firm defines its audience as "classic, cultured and contemporary", with "an elegant style, an active social life and present at the most important events in the cultural industry", who also value the processes behind what they consume and the manual and artisan work of the products they use to invest up to around 1,000 dollars into each piece.


Cubel




Images from the campaign for Cubel's collaboration with Seven Studio. Credits: Cubel.



Cubel, under the creative direction of Humberto Cubides, represents in its purest essence the perfect symbiosis between the rich cultural heritage of Colombia with the most urban contemporary aesthetic.


About Cubel:




* Founder:Humberto Cubides (2015)

* Presence: On its website you can see all the brand's collections and place pre-order orders. In Colombia's St Dom Bogotá and Cartagena and in Mexico, CDMX in the IKAL store.

* Contact: Info@cubel.co

* Prices: from 100 dollars for a t-shirt to 2,000 for a hand-woven and embroidered coat.

* Production: Colombia.






His collaboration with artists and indigenous communities has helped him achieve an unparalleled brand identity that is materialised in the implementation of techniques such as basketry in his jackets or in silhouettes that represent the influence of historical cultures and a renewed vision of genderless fashion.


Images from the campaign for Cubel's collaboration with Seven Studio. Credits: Cubel.



The brand has managed to stand out in internationally renowned fashion scenarios, such as New York Fashion Week and the International Thai Silk Fashion W. Bangkok, thus consolidating its presence on the global scene. Preparing the ground to expand its presence in international markets with its autumn 2025 collection, the Colombian firm shared on the eve of Bogotá Fashion Week the results of its latest collaboration with the retail brand Seven Seven, where they found inspiration in the mycelium and its regenerative power to create an innovative and meaningful collection that quickly sold out.


For Humberto Cubides, the essence of this collection goes beyond the aesthetic. "This meeting between the worlds of Cubel and Seven Seven is very special, we managed to create a concept between urban silhouettes with prints and details that evoke the mycelium, highlighting the analogies between these beings from the fungi kingdom and humanity, transmitting a message of unity and connection," said the creative director behind the Colombian brand.


Designer Humberto Cubides wearing Cubel Credits: Cubel



Emi Díaz




Credits: Emi Díaz



Emi Diaz is the creative soul behind her namesake jewellery brand, which carries the roots of the Colombian Caribbean in each piece. Each of these works of art is meticulously hand-woven, stone by stone, merging an intricate play of colours, nuances, and volumes that find inspiration in the depths of the sea and materialise in the form of corals of all kinds.


About Emi Díaz:




* Founder: Emi Díaz (2019).

* Presence: Currently in the process of expanding both in the national and international market. For now, her jewellery is available in various concept stores around the world, including OliBati in Madrid, Spain; St Dom (also in Cartagena), Magangue, and the store of the Banco de la República Museum in Bogotá, Colombia; Makeno in Medellín; and Azulu in Miami, US.

* Contact: gerencia@emidiaz.co | +57 3167520 287

* Prices:from 300 to 900 dollars.

* Production: Colombia







“For three years, I dedicated myself to studying and testing techniques. I learned to weave by looking at images on Pinterest, without any prior knowledge or even the name of the stones. I think this way of learning was what set me apart, because if I had had an instructor, my weaving style would be similar to everyone else's,"
Emi Diaz, founder and creative mind of her namesake brand



Credits: Emi Díaz



Although she has a degree in economics, her passion for art and fashion led her to explore this unique art form. Each piece of jewelry from the brand reflects the time and dedication invested in both its design and its elaboration, using the highest quality materials, such as silver and 24-karat gold. Prices range from 300 to 900 dollars, reflecting the meticulous attention to detail and the artisanal process that takes approximately two and a half weeks per piece. Although her process is not susceptible to industrialisation, she has recently integrated one more person to collaborate in the production.


(From left to right) Cavata piece, inspired by a brain coral. Coralina, masterpiece, inspired by coral reefs. Candra, inspired by Tubipora corals. Credits: Emi Díaz.



The support of SENA, the Colombian National Learning Service, helped her to boost her project, providing a seed capital of 80 million pesos (about 4.4 million dollars) as part of a project to support emerging talent. Her turnover last year amounted to 93 million pesos (about 5.2 million dollars), and although its founder assures that "the company is holding its own", she seeks to continue growing by participating in events such as Bogotá Fashion Week or Expoartesanías, attracting a select audience that values "the authenticity and exclusivity" of her proposal.


This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.ES. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.

Read more:



* Perfect balance between tradition and innovation: A review of Bogotá Fashion Week


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Alexander Manufacturing sponsors design by LCF menswear graduate

Coat design by Euan Mcdonach, London College of Fashion. Credits: image courtesy of Alexander Manufacturing.



Scottish luxury fashion manufacturer Alexander Manufacturing is sponsoring a bachelor student at London College of Fashion (LCF), University of the Arts London (UAL).
The creative in question, Euan Mcdonach is a final year student of the bachelor programme in fashion design technology: menswear at LCF.


Alexander Manufacturing provided Mcdonach with the materials and means to design a coat using Scottish craftsmanship techniques, which was named ‘The Mackintosh Mac’. The design was inspired by the Scottish Mackintosh jacket, an item with a 200-year history, as per a release from the company.


It was constructed using a special method where the garment, made of Fawn rubber coated cotton, is glued together and reinforced by sewing rubberised cotton tape into the seams. This makes the coat completely waterproof.


The garment features the rubberised tape on both sides, making it a reversible outerwear piece. A traditional Glasgow rose motif is added to the back of the cape. The finalised coat took almost three days to complete.


Coat design by Euan Mcdonach, London College of Fashion. Credits: image courtesy of Alexander Manufacturing.



Commenting on the sponsorship in a statement, Paula McIlwraith, head of production and development at Alexander Manufacturing, said: "Supporting young talent is crucial for the future of our industry.”


She continued: “This sponsorship has been a fantastic opportunity for a passionate student to engage with real-world applications of their skills and see their designs brought to life by industry professionals.”


“It has also allowed us to showcase our skill and expertise, bringing Euan's creative vision to life. It was a labour-intensive project, but the result is a beautiful testament to Scottish craftsmanship," she concluded.


Coat design by Euan Mcdonach, London College of Fashion. Credits: image courtesy of Alexander Manufacturing.


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PrettyLittleThing introduces returns fee

PLT Label, premium collection at PrettyLittleThing Credits: PrettyLittleThing



PrettyLittleThing has joined a number of its fast fashion counterparts in the introduction of returns fees despite having previously stood by its free returns policy on social media last year.


Through the newly introduced policy, PrettyLittleThing returns will now cost UK customers 1.99 pound, the total of which will be deducted from a customer’s order on a product's return.


This is higher for other countries and regions. While customers in the US and Canada will be charged four dollars for their returns, in Europe charges amount to five euros and in New Zealand returns will cost 14.99 NZD.


The U-turn in its approach to returns fees comes alongside a spike in online ordering, particularly among British consumers, 89 percent of which were said to have been more likely to have ordered multiple sizes and buy items in bulk from online retailers in the past year.


This is according to retail payment experts at Dojo who reckon that mass market brands are shifting to returns fees due to such processes proving to be “very expensive for businesses”.


While PrettyLittleThing is the most recent retailer to adapt, it follows a recently similar move by Oh Polly, which introduced nine pound return fees last month in order to deter “serial refunders”.


Other high street brands that have already taken to charging for returns include Zara, H&M and New Look, all of which have had similar policies implemented for over a year.


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Pepco sees low revenues for Poundland clothing as retailer falls behind expectations

Poundland, Pepco Credits: Pepco



European discount conglomerate Pepco Group has reported its interim results for the six-month period ended March 31, 2024, during which time it saw revenues rise 13.8 percent year-on-year to hit 3.2 billion euros.


While the group itself welcomed positive results for the business as a whole, with group EBITDA up 28.2 percent and gross margin sitting at 43.1 percent, its experience with the UK-based Poundland was less optimistic.


Despite seeing “good potential” in the discount space, reflected in the opening of 81 stores during the half year period, Poundland reported a “mixed performance” in its conversions, caused by the large-scale transitions into former Wilko stores and the scale of sales throughout Christmas.


The retailer’s revenues, however, grew by 5.3 percent to 1,054 million euros, alongside a gross margin that remained largely flat at 38.8 percent despite forecasted improvements. EBITDA dropped to 42 percent, due to impact from higher labour costs and an increase in store numbers.


In addition to this, there has also been a lacklustre response to the introduction of Pepco-sourced clothing, which debuted in Poundland stores in September 2023, and has since failed to replicate the previous depth and range of Poundland’s previous ranges, resulting in lower like-for-like revenues in the clothing category.


Pepco CEE hailed ‘standout performer’ as EBITDA returns to pre-Covid levels




Pepco said it anticipates this transitional issue to continue during FY24, with an improved trajectory of Poundland’s clothing performance expected to come in the second half of the year.


This was touched upon in a statement from executive chair of Pepco Group, Andy Bond, who said: “Despite a positive [fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG)] contribution, Poundland’s performance was behind expectations due to challenges in implementing the significant range change to Pepco products, which we are addressing.”


Elsewhere, the group was more optimistic, particularly towards its efforts to rebuild profitability in its core Central and Eastern European (CEE) business, which achieved its target of rebuilding Pepco CEE 4 wall EBITDA back to pre-Covid levels, driven by a strong recovery of its gross margin, among other initiatives.


As such, Bond labelled the category as the “standout performer” for the period, highlighting its progress against strategic priorities while noting that there were further opportunities for improvement.


The Pepco retailer itself saw revenue rise 16.3 percent as a result of its 627 plus new stores, while gross margin now sits at 45.5 percent, up from the prior 40.7 percent.


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Former Gildan CEO reinstated as entire board exits

Standort von Gildan Activewear in Honduras Credits: Gildan Activewear



Following a campaign by activist investors to regain control of the company, all board members of Gildan Activewear have now stepped down and are to be replaced by an eight-member slate of directors proposed by shareholder Browning West.


It puts into place a proposal introduced by the investment firm, which owns around 5.7 percent of the company’s outstanding shares, to add Michael Kneeland, Michener Chandlee, Ghislain Houle, Mélanie Kau, Peter Lee, Karen Stuckey and J.P. Towner to Gildan’s board, as well as reinstate former CEO Glenn Chamandy to the helm position.


Browning had initially aired its frustration at Chamandy’s termination after he was replaced by Vince Tyra towards the end of 2023, warning Gildan that if it did not correct its missteps it intended to requisition a special meeting to reconstitute the board.


While the proposal had received support from other shareholders, Gildan refused to act on the request, stating that Chamandy had “worked to entrench himself as CEO”, a claim that was later disputed by Chamandy, who noted he was not involved in the board’s handling of a succession plan.


Vince Tyra steps down from helm




As such, Browning filed a lawsuit against the company, alleging that it had pursued a “strategy of entrenchment, obfuscation and disparagement of dissenting shareholders” while making “value destructive decisions” and contradictory statements regarding Chamandy’s exit.


Despite this, Gildan’s board continued to pursue a potential takeover bid against the will of Browning and other shareholders as well as a strategy outlined by Tyra and a reshuffling of its board.


Now, however, with the revelation of an entirely new board to be put into place, it appears that Browning and its peers have come out on top, with Tyra terminated and other executives to step down.


Commending Chamandy and noting the scale of the reconstitution aside other investors, Usam Nabi and Peter Lee of Browning said in a joint statement: “We are deeply grateful for the outpouring of support that Browning West’s slate and plan have received from our fellow shareholders, Gildan employees, and leading proxy advisory firms.


“While we are disappointed that the board ignored the clear will of its shareholders for so many months and spent tens of millions of shareholder capital in an effort to defend its mistakes, we are nevertheless gratified that the current board has decided to cease its campaign activities and pave the way for an orderly and conclusive leadership transition.”


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LVMH Innovation Award 2024: Bernard Arnault prioritises AI with FancyTech

Morgan Mao and Bernard Arnault / VivaTech 2024 Credits: F. Julienne



On 23 May, at the VivaTech trade fair, the LVMH group awarded seven trophies to start-ups nominated for innovation prizes in various categories. Morgan Mao, founder of FancyTech, a Chinese company, received the grand prize from CEO Bernard Arnault himself.


"Make your dream a reality" was the motto of the ceremony, which was held to a full house at the VivaTech high-tech trade fair in Paris' Porte de Versailles and brought together the top figures of the LVMH group, including Gonzague de Pirey, director of omnichannel and data; Mathilde Delhoume, global brand director; Hélène Valade, director of environmental development; and Franck Le Moal, director of information systems and technology.


The dream has become reality for FancyTech, which has developed video production software using generative artificial intelligence (GenAl). The start-up, which also won the "Immersive Digital Experiences" award, was presented with the grand prize trophy, which arrived on stage in a Louis Vuitton Monogram mini-mall. Created by Dior and inspired by the concept of the LVMH stand at VivaTech, 'The Garden of Dreams', the trophy was designed to showcase the skills of Murano glass blowers combined with the capabilities of GenAl.


Bernard Arnault / VivaTech 2024 Credits: F. Julienne



Admittedly, Gen AI cannot create from scratch, but by using 3D modelling of products and prompts (creative briefs), it is now capable, thanks to FancyTech, of producing animated images without the need for a technical team. Asked on its stand by FashionUnited about the issues raised by rampant technology, which is disrupting working habits, the team replied that jobs are changing and that we need to accept AI as a tool to be even more creative.


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Textile-to-textile recycling company Syre receives investment of 100 million dollars

Polyester threads on a spool. Credits: Syre



Fresh-faced recycling company Syre has raised an additional 100 million dollars in a new funding round, according to a press release.


The capital raised will be used to set up the first recycling and manufacturing facility in the US, which should be operationally active as early as the end of 2024.


In addition to this, the money will be used to prepare for setting up textile-to-textile recycling facilities worldwide and has further aided in Syre's purchase of patented technology for recycling, allowing post-consumer textile waste to be converted into circular polyester in a way that is rapidly scalable worldwide.


Syre reported in the release that it has its eye on Vietnam and Iberia, Spain, as locations for the facilities, adding: "Both regions are strategically positioned within the textile production chain and have a long history of a vibrant textile industry, with access to knowledge, supply and logistics alongside green energy."


Syre was founded by the H&M Group in partnership with Vargas Holding, with a focus on textile-to-textile recycling, specifically with polyester.


As such, the company hopes to discourage the use of virgin polyester and bottle-to-textile recycling. Notably, recycled polyester is now often made from plastic bottles, despite the bottle industry having its own circular system.


Recycled polyester has been under a magnifying glass for some time, but attention to it has been growing recently. Much of the recycled polyester used in the fashion industry comes from (collected) PET bottles. While PET bottles can be recycled over and over again, with current techniques recycled polyester typically cannot. This means that recycled polyester can only be downcycled after use.


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Coats Group delivers revenue increase of 7 percent

The Coats Group recorded organic revenue growth of 7 percent and reported growth of 4 percent against a weak prior year comparator.


The company said in a release that the improving trend was driven by apparel, where revenue was up 14 percent as customer inventories and buying patterns returned to more normalised levels. Footwear also returned to growth in the period, with revenue 6 percent higher year-on-year, as demand from several major brand customers picked up as their inventories also normalised.


The company added that performance materials trading in the period was in line with our expectations. The business continues to be impacted by US customer phasing issues, and reported revenue down 5 percent in the period but an improvement from a decline of 17 percent in FY23.


The company further said that it is on track to achieve overall savings of 70 million dollars by the end of 2024. These savings, along with focus on controlling costs, resulted in group adjusted EBIT margin to remain in line with the company’s 2024 goal of 17 percent.


Over the medium term, Coats remains confident in the group's ability to deliver strong profit growth and cash generation, owing to the company’s scale, global footprint, innovation, strong digital platform and technical support capabilities, alongside continued investment in sustainability and innovation.


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Despite Q1 sales decline, United Labels forecasts positive outlook

United Labels generated consolidated sales of 5.8 million euros in the first quarter.


The company said in a release that the decline in sales resulted from the distribution of customer campaigns before and after the reporting date.


Commenting on the financial results, Peter Boder, CEO of United Labels AG, said: “I am convinced that we have a strong remaining financial year ahead of us. This is already becoming apparent, particularly in e-commerce. I am therefore confident that we will exceed the previous year’s sales and earnings figures in 2024 as a whole.”


Despite these order postponements, a significantly higher gross profit margin led to EBITDA of 0.5 million euros and EBIT at 0.4 million euros, both at the previous year’s level.


Net profit for the first quarter was 0.3 million euros, which corresponds to a return on sales of 4.5 percent.


In the previous financial year 2023, United Labels generated sales of 24.8 million euros and EBITDA of 1.3 million euros.


United Labels develops, produces and distributes clothing, home textiles and gift items with brands such as Paw Patrol, Peppa Pig, Snoopy and Harry Potter.


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LVMH strengthens partnership with Alibaba

LVMH celebrates diversity within its teams. Credits: LVMH Data Summit © ARR via LVMH.com



French luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has announced it is deepening its partnership with Chinese e-commerce and technology giant Alibaba to “redefine luxury retail experiences in China”.


In a statement, LVMH said the extended partnership aims to push the boundaries of the luxury experience in China by leveraging Alibaba’s cloud technologies through AI-powered innovations in retail and online with Tmall.


LVMH added that the strengthening of the partnership was a shared commitment from the two companies “to pioneer retail innovation and delivering exceptional, tech-driven luxury experiences,” while helping the French luxury group increase its omnichannel, data and tech presence in China.


Stephane Bianchi, group managing director of LVMH, said: “Alibaba is already a key partner for our Maisons and for the Group. The reinforcement of our partnership will help us to further accelerate our omni-channel business growth and to keep on leveraging the transformative capabilities of cloud and AI technologies, along with Alibaba’s world-leading expertise in e-commerce operations.


“Our forward-looking collaboration will deliver unparalleled experiences to our clients throughout their high-end shopping journey.”


The strategic partnership between LVMH and Alibaba started in 2019 and has seen LVMH implement Alibaba Cloud’s data management tool, Dataphin, to power ‘LVMH Atom’ China, a bespoke platform to deliver personalised services tailored to its expanding Chinese customer base. In addition, LVMH has leveraged Alibaba Cloud’s machine learning platform, PAI, to develop customised services that cater to the distinct tastes of Chinese consumers across all its brands.


LVMH looks to Alibaba to enhance luxury experience for Chinese shoppers




As part of the new deal, LVMH has begun integrating Alibaba Cloud's generative AI capabilities, including Qwen, Alibaba’s proprietary large language model, and Model Studio (Bailian), a comprehensive AI model-building platform.


It covers more than 30 brands and divisions within mainland China and Southeast Asia, including beauty retailer Sephora’s Asia-Pacific division and travel retail arm DFS, and will give LVMH access to a broader array of Alibaba Cloud's leading technologies and products to optimise its business operations, enhance customer insights, and streamline its supply chain management processes to address Chinese market.


Eddie Wu, chief executive officer of Alibaba Group, added: “Alibaba is pleased to enable a transformation of the high-end consumption experience with retail leaders like LVMH through our world-class technologies in cloud computing and AI.


“This comprehensive partnership has elevated the retail experience for LVMH’s customers worldwide, including China-based consumers on Tmall. We look forward to continuing to build on the strong partnership and innovation journey with LVMH.”


This announcement follows the recent debut of Tiffany’s and Chaumet on Alibaba’s Tmall Luxury Pavilion, which offers experiences such as 3D product displays, virtual try-ons, and livestreaming.


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Grown Alchemist signs global partnership deal with Equinox

Beauty


Grown Alchemist global partnership deal with Equinox campaign image Credits: Grown Alchemist / Equinox



Beauty brand Grown Alchemist, which moved into privately held ownership in April to drive international growth, has signed an exclusive global partnership with fitness and lifestyle company Equinox.


The deal will see Grown Alchemist products, including the brand’s Energize Body Cleanser, Restorative Body Cream, Gentle Gel Facial Cleanser, Hydra-Restore Shampoo and Hydra-Restore Conditioner available in more than 100 Equinox clubs across major US cities, including New York, LA, Miami, and San Francisco as well as London, Toronto, and Vancouver.


In addition, the beauty brand will offer custom treatments at select Equinox Spa locations and introduce future exclusive offerings at The Shop at Equinox.


Julia Klim, vice president of strategic partnerships at Equinox, said in a statement: “Equinox’s partnership with Grown Alchemist underscores our collective efforts to deliver innovative, unparalleled products and experiences to our member community.


“Together, we will push the boundaries of full body performance through our shared commitment to longevity and full health optimisation.”


Grown Alchemist global partnership deal with Equinox campaign image Credits: Grown Alchemist / Equinox



Anna Teal, global chief executive at Grown Alchemist, added: “Grown Alchemist is an innovator of biotech beauty that is dedicated to creating formulas that are 100 percent compatible with skin and the environment.


“We are thrilled to be partnering with Equinox on this global venture and are excited to bring our pioneering advanced formulations to the Equinox experience and enhance their journey to maximise cellular potential inside and out.”


Founded in Australia in 2008, Grown Alchemist offers skincare, bodycare and haircare, utilising advanced plant and biotech ingredients that work in harmony with the skin’s own biology for better absorption and more powerful results. It also offers spa treatments and services that optimise skin function, including IV Infusion Therapy.


Grown Alchemist, headquartered in London, is sold in more than 40 countries and is available in retailers, including Sephora, Credo Beauty and five-star hotels and spas.


Grown Alchemist global partnership deal with Equinox campaign image Credits: Grown Alchemist / Equinox


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Landlord GPE publishes ambitious net zero targets

New Bond Street, London. Credits: GPE



London property group Great Portland Estates (GPE) has updated its ‘Roadmap to Net Zero’ eco manifesto to include ambitious new carbon reduction targets and revised timescales.


GPE, which owns retail properties across Mayfair, Finsbury, Fitzrovia, Soho and Marylebone in London, said the updated roadmap was in response to what it calls “the increasing impact of global climate change, and the carbon reductions necessary to decarbonise the built environment”.


First launched in 2020, its original roadmap incorporated 60 percent of its footprint and envisaged a plan to reduce its carbon emissions by 50 percent by 2030, before offsetting the balance to net zero.


Its new ‘Net Zero 2.0’ plan incorporates the whole of its carbon footprint to ensure it is more closely aligned with the requirements of the SBTi Net Zero Carbon Standard and CRREM trajectories.


This includes “more ambitious” absolute emissions targets for Scope 1, 2 and 3 emissions, as it looks to reduce its emissions by 42 percent by 2030 and 90 percent by 2040, from its 2023 baseline.


It has also added “more challenging” embodied carbon and energy intensity reduction targets to reduce its embodied carbon by 52 percent, from its 2020 baseline, and reduce its energy intensity by 47 percent by 2030, from its 2016 baseline.


In addition, the plan includes new customer engagement and supply chain engagement targets to support faster Scope 3 emissions reductions; a new commitment to remove gas-fired boilers entirely from its buildings by 2030 “to ensure that all energy consumed at our buildings is fossil fuel free,” and an increase of its Internal Carbon Price from 95 pounds per tonne to 150 pounds per tonne.


Janine Cole, sustainability and social impact director at Great Portland Estates, said in a statement: “In updating our Roadmap to Net Zero, we have increased the ambition and scope of our net zero targets. We now know that if we are to reduce our emissions in line with climate science, we must reach nearly zero before offsetting the balance. Our updated roadmap now covers 100 percent of our carbon footprint and an absolute Scope 1, 2 and 3 emissions reduction target of 90 percent before becoming a net zero carbon business by 2040.


“We do not underestimate the challenge ahead and will need to be innovative, working in partnership with our entire value chain, embracing technology as it evolves, whilst further integrating the principles of the circular economy as we create the workspaces of tomorrow.”


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Charity retailers deserve support amid price criticism, says Chief Executive of Traid

Traid Charity shop Credits: Traid website



In recent weeks, charity retail has faced criticism for allegedly overcharging customers with inflated prices. This narrative overlooks the crucial role that charity shops play and misrepresents the sector, which has a long history of supporting vital causes. Maria Chenoweth, Chief Executive of charity retailer Traid, published a thought piece on on how clothing is priced within charity retail.


Charity retail, which dates back to 1870 with St Agatha’s flower shop in East London, has evolved significantly, Chenoweth says. From the Salvation Army stores aiding war veterans in the late 19th century to Oxfam’s extensive efforts starting in 1947, charity shops have raised essential funds for a diverse range of causes, including cancer research, homelessness, and educational support. These shops address gaps left by other systems, offering unparalleled contributions to society.


The sector now contends with the massive challenge posed by ultra-fast fashion, characterised by extremely low prices and unsustainable practices. Charity shops are often expected to offer even cheaper alternatives, despite the inherent sustainability and ethical advantages they provide. They aim to educate consumers about the negative impact of fast fashion while promoting the reuse and recycling of quality garments.



"The industry is being tasked to be the answer to a cost-of-living crisis and be cheaper than a fashion market flooded by ultra-fast-fashion brands drowning in 1 pound t-shirts and 3 pound skirts," says Maria Chenoweth. "What is being asked of charity retail? To mop up the fashion industry’s mess and sell for less than the cost of turning the electricity on? Educating people on why buying cheap, unethical, and hugely unsustainable clothing is the wrong choice? We maximise the potential of the clothes you no longer wear; demanding change from a throw away, fast fashion culture that continues to destroy this planet."



At Traid, where Maria Chenoweth has been chief executive sine 2003, garments are meticulously sorted, priced, and dispatched to ensure fairness and relevance to their market. Reducing prices, as some critics suggest, would undermine their ability to fund important causes. Instead, scrutiny should be directed at corporations driving up operational costs, thereby straining the resources available for charitable services.


Traid exemplifies the positive impact of charity retail




Dedicated to transforming the fashion industry, it funds global projects supporting garment workers, organic cotton farmers, and more. Their efforts have led to significant achievements, such as establishing free daycare centers in Bangladesh and securing Ethiopia’s first organic cotton certifications. By selling second-hand clothing, Traid has supported 700,000 garment workers, repurposed 233 million garments, and saved substantial amounts of CO2 and water.


Critics often overlook the motivations of charity retail workers, who are driven by personal connections to the causes they support and a commitment to maximizing funds for these causes. It's crucial to reassess charity retail's value, recognizing its contributions to sustainability, community support, and global impact.


For more information visit www.traid.org.uk.


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‘Metamorfosi’: Istituto Marangoni Miami goes global with first student fashion show

In Pictures


Istituto Marangoni inaugural student fashion show, May 2024. Credits: Image courtesy of IMM.



On Thursday May 16, fashion and design institution Istituto Marangoni Miami (IMM) presented its first student fashion show, which is now set to be an annual event to cement the status of the Miami school of fashion and its graduates on the world stage. Twenty students of this year's graduating class showcased 62 looks in total.


The physical runway show was entitled ‘Metamorfosi’, a name with which the US campus of Italian institution IM aimed to reflect ‘the transformation of IMM students as they transition from the academic environment to the global fashion stage,’ as per a press release sent out by the school.


A look by Daniel Uribe at the Istituto Marangoni inaugural student fashion show, May 2024. Credits: Image courtesy of IMM.



A look by Veronica Espinosa at the Istituto Marangoni inaugural student fashion show, May 2024. Credits: courtesy of IMM.



The students who showcased their designs hail from a variety of cultural backgrounds. Out of the 62 looks presneted in total, some students presented just one look, while other students had the opportunity to showcase five or six different creations.


A look by Michael Acierno at the Istituto Marangoni inaugural student fashion show, May 2024. Credits: courtesy of IMM.



A look by Chengi Jiang at the Istituto Marangoni inaugural student fashion show, May 2024. Credits: courtesy of IMM.



The graduating students of the IMM school of fashion and design who presented their designs are:


Anabel Montiel, Camila Francine Balleste, Chenqi Jiang, Daniel Uribe, Fabiana Polito, Ilayda Polat, Jancarlos Cruz, Julianna Suplicki, Karla Urdaneta, Michael Acierno, Paloma Racca, Paula Alduncin, Rene Mejia, Ryan Hamilton, Sofia Lemann, Taneika Gibson, Vanessa Lugbeit, Veronica Espinosa, Veronica Lam, and Victoria Sarmiento.


A look by Ryan Hamilton at the Istituto Marangoni inaugural student fashion show, May 2024. Credits: courtesy of IMM.



A look by Sofia Lemann at the Istituto Marangoni inaugural student fashion show, May 2024. Credits: courtesy of IMM.



A look by Anabel Montiel at the Istituto Marangoni inaugural student fashion show, May 2024. Credits: courtesy of IMM.


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Shein reportedly approaches former UK chancellor ahead of IPO

Credits: Shein



Ahead of what is set to potentially be a major IPO filing, Shein is believed to have approached the UK’s Sajid Javid for a possible appointment to the Chinese fast fashion giant’s board.


According to Sky News, alternatively Javid, the former chancellor of the exchequer, is among those also being considered for an advisory role at Shein, with the company’s executive chairman Donald Tang said to have held talks with Javid in recent weeks.


Former BBC Trust chair Baroness Fairhead is also reportedly on the list of possible candidates being eyed by Shein, with a source close to the company stating that individuals being approached reflect Shein’s seriousness towards corporate governance.


While speculation over where Shein is to establish its bumper IPO has continued circulating, Sky News has reported that the company has edged closer to a London flotation after experiencing difficulties in securing approval from US regulators.


The media outlet noted that the offering could value Shein at around 50 billion pounds, becoming London Stock Exchange’s second largest IPO in history.


In New York, however, the retailer faced obstacles in the form of opposing senators that had advocated for an IPO block due to concerns about the company’s ties to China and its alleged lack of operational transparency.


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