Image: Courtesy Fendi FW22
Those watching the Milan fw22 collections entered a parallel universe
on the third day of the shows when Russia invaded its neighbor
Ukraine. Certainly it begs the question, is it frivolous to watch
fashion shows at the very moment one country declares war on another?
Perhaps it could be conceived in that way, but the show must go on,
especially after two years of mostly digital presentations. The
trickle down effect from the major and indeed, some of the minor,
fashion weeks is immense, providing work for thousands and thousands
of people and creating revenues larger than the GDP of many small
countries. In any case, fashion trends reflect the cultural zeitgeist
so if you want to know what's happening in the world you could do
worse than watching the current shows.
Masculine/Feminine
Image: Courtesy Prada FW22
For several years now, the main cultural conversation has centered
upon gender fluidity. The fashion world has answered the call, with
fashion brands all over the world using non-binary and transgendered
models, showing skirts and dresses for men and designing
broad-shouldered tailored suits for women. More and more often men's
and women's wear are shown simultaneously. Several Italian designers
including Fendi, Versace, Blumarine and Dolce & Gabbana went a step
further showing looks that combined both masculine and feminine
details in a single outfit. Nowhere was this more evident than at Prada; a singlet or a wool blazer decorated
with a ring of feathers around the upper arm worn over layers
including a crystal embellished sheer midi-length skirt.
Image: Blumarine FW22
Gothic Glamour
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Image: Courtesy Andreadamo FW22
As seen throughout the pre-fall and fw22 seasons, designers
including Elisabetta Franchi, Andreadamo and Dolce & Gabbana showed
skin baring looks in head-to-toe black. At Roberto Cavalli, Fausto
Puglisi showed fetishistic "cage" tops and dresses with cutouts and
metal rings. Fendi showed sheer black dresses that revealed black
lingerie beneath. At Versace there were latex leggings under a
corseted mini dress and Julia Fox in the front row with a
latex-wrapped ponytail!
Image: Courtesy Roberto Cavalli FW22
Puffed Up
Image: Courtesy Maxmara FW22
The puffy nylon sporty trendsees no signs of
abating and Milan was no exception. At Anteprima, that meant puffy
nylon ochre colored outerwear and scarves. At Max Mara, quilted burnt
orange nylon pants had zips on the sides and were teamed with second
skin cashmere sweater and matching balaclava and a pair of ochre
colored nylon pants were shown with a ribbed mockturtle neck sweater.
Canasa and Daniela Gregis both showed nylon bomber jackets.
Image: Courtesy Anteprima FW22
Tartan and Plaid
Image: Courtesy Gucci FW22
Following on from the pre-fall collections, Milan designers showed
many outfits rendered in tartan and plaid fabrics. Some used it in an
anarchic way, perhaps a nod to the kilted Scottish warriors who fought
the English, or more recently Vivienne Westward's punk movement of the
late '70s. Case in point, Francesco Risso showed an earth-toned tartan
skirt with a shredded satin pink top and overlong red and black pants.
At AC9, oversized pleated plaid pants were shown with a long line bra
and long fingerless organza gloves. Gucci collaborated with Adidas this season
and the result was a collection that included many show stopping
looks. In one, a yellow and brown tartan skirt was shown over classic
blue Adidas track pants and teamed with a tailored look on top. At
Roberto Cavalli, Fausto Puglisi showed a layered mini kilt over an
all-in-one printed with roses and thorns.
Image: Courtesy Marni FW22
Winter Pastels
Image: Courtesy Jil Sander FW22
With each passing year, there is a growing desire for clothing in
trans-seasonal colors. Winter white has been trending for many seasons
now and this coming fall will be joined by various pastel shades more
traditionally associated with spring. At Fendi, icy pink, green and
lavender, work back to pearl grey and a pop of red. At Jil Sander,
Easter egg colors of pale yellow, lavender and peach were worked into
a palette of earth tones and monochromes. Marco Ramhaldi's sporty
collection of mostly knit pieces was rendered in pastels. At MM6
Maison Margiela, John Galliano showed a group of looks in pale colors
including a peachy toned parka.
Image: Courtesy MM6 Maison Margiela
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