British photographer Rankin’s new exhibition, Back in the Dazed, presents a compelling retrospective, capturing the dynamic synergy between his unique lens and the influential magazine over a transformative decade. The showcase spans the zeitgeist of 90s Cool Britannia, spotlighting cult celebrities, musical icons, and top supermodels, a testament to the era’s enduring influence.
As the co-founder and inaugural Photographic Editor of Dazed & Confused, Rankin’s visual style not only propelled the magazine to prominence but also encapsulated the evolving aesthetics of British youth culture. Over ten years, Rankin crafted more than 200 seminal editorial shoots, creating a visual manifesto that communicated powerful socio-political statements through the lens, rather than words.
Rankin’s work with Dazed defied mainstream pressures, championing LGBTQIA+ representation, and bringing the vibrancy of working-class youth to the fore. His lens became synonymous with the Brit-pop movement, and his portraits of rising cult actors defined a generation. Rejecting notions of elitist ‘high culture,’ Rankin democratised access to contemporary art and experimental music, giving voice to ordinary teenagers.
Back in the Dazed marks the first UK retrospective of Rankin’s groundbreaking work from this prescient decade. Through his lens, visitors are invited to traverse a cultural landscape that resonated globally, celebrating the creative community of the 90s. This exhibition is a tribute to youthful creativity, encapsulated by a legendary photographer and immortalized in a seminal magazine.
“Those early years were great for experimentation. For me, just starting out, I was like a blank canvas. Because we were pretty naively fearless, we did things that ended up really changing culture. It was from that time that I learnt that I love what I do, and I fell in love with the people around me - capturing them all on medium format film.” – Rankin said in a statement.
“To understand Rankin’s work you need not look any further than the pages of his first magazine, a printed record of his thoughts and reactions to the
world around him,” Ellen Stone, the exhibition’s curator said. “Dazed shaped Rankin’s photography and it in turn shaped other’s view of the world. Think of your favourite young actor or pop star from the 1990s – invariably you are remembering a Rankin picture.”
The exhibition runs from May 28th - June 23rd at 180 Studios, London.
Debbie Harry, Eyes Wide Shut, Dazed, Issue 20, 1996 Credits: Courtesy Rankin
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