Lululemon apologizes after t-shirt design causes backlash In China

Sportswear company Lululemon apologized after an employee promoted a T-shirt design that created an outrage in China for its reference to the origin of coronavirus, multiple reports said.

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The design, which showed a Chinese takeaway box of 'bat fried rice' with images of chopsticks and bat wings, was created by California-based artist Jess Sluder, while Lululemon's art director Trevor Fleming posted a picture of the design on Instagram.

Even though Instagram is not available in China, the image reached the Chinese social media platform Weibo, reaching millions there with the hashtag 'Lululemon insults China.' Many of them demanded a boycott of the brand.

The design was seen with a racist reference to coronavirus, which was first identified in the Chinese city of Wuhan last year, and thought to have originated in bats.

Following the incident, Lululemon said the design was "inappropriate and inexcusable," and that it has dismissed the employee.(DPA)

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Paige Denim & SESSÙN Coronavirus Relief - Charity Initiative inclusion

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Parisian fashion brand Sessún will be doing its part to help the Coronavirus relief effort by donating 10% of its sales to the Covid-19 emergency aid fund set up by the FHF (French Hospitals Foundation)

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Fashion brand Paige, will donate 20% of their entire sales to St.Vincents Meals on Wheels.

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Podcast: The impact of COVID-19 on the garment

How does the corona crisis factory workers in the fashion industry? And what are the long-term prospects for a sustainable fashion industry?
In the podcast fashion industry are called upon to take responsibility. Speaking includes Ayesha Barenblat, founder Remake - a storytelling platform that is committed to building a conscious consumer movement, and Mostafiz Uddin, owner of denim manufacturer and exporter Denim Expert Ltd from Bangladesh and founder of the Bangladesh Center for Worker Solidarity.

Source: WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press
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Womenwear accessorie trends for Fall Winter 2020-21

Trendstop gives FashionUnited readers a first look at the key accessory directions from the womenswear Fall Winter 2020-21 season.

Trendstop’s catwalk experts bring you the essential themes inspiring accessory design into Fall Winter 20-21 and beyond. Across the international designer collections, new levels of elevation and refinement was brought to the biggest fashion stories to have emerged in recent times with a focus on bringing everyday influences and cross-category references into the luxury sector. Our comprehensive catwalk coverage, dedicated accessory galleries and reports, evaluate each trend’s commercial value and longevity, giving you the best possible basis for your decision making.

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This week FashionUnited readers get an exclusive look at three accessory trends that will be crucial to informing the basis of your next collection. Hyper-Elevated Outdoor transform formally rugged motifs into fashion must-haves while still retaining their performance credentials. The Evolved Weave and Vintage Childhood Nostalgia illustrate the high-end spin being applied to homely and crafted aesthetics.

Hyper-Elevated Outdoor

Outdoor themes continue to inform accessory design, evolving to further complement the luxury market. Padded backpack and holdalls come in premium quilted nylon, finished with a satinised sheen whilst functional, detachable multi-pockets are adorned with fashion detailing. Practical accompaniments such as water bottle holders in performance perf are trimmed with leather and rendered in directional colour ways.

Images courtesy of Trendstop, left to right: Moncler, Kenzo, Toga, all Fall Winter 2020-21.

The Evolved Weave

Handcrafting moves away from rustic naivety and into the realms of the atelier. Intricate woven designs are amplified via a mixing of contrasting techniques, statement fringing and exaggerated proportions. Sumptuous leathers highlight the new premium feel with applications ranging from tactile bags and elaborate belts, to re-imaginings of luxe jewellery pieces.

Vintage Childhood Nostalgia

Fall winter accessories reignite childhood memories with sweet nostalgic references and vintage inspirations. Miniature, boxy bags use slotted constructions to reference school lunch packs, decorated with child-like doodles. A soft palette of retro tones and heirloom agate trims channel the luxury feel of the past.

Exclusive Offer

FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop’s Women’s SS20 Key Bags & Belts Directions, a curated overview of the essential accessory directions from the season’s catwalk collections. Simply click here to receive your free report.

Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.

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In pictures: JW Anderson opens flagship store in London's Soho

British fashion label JW Anderson has opened its first flagship store in Soho, London.

The two-floor 1300-square-foot space carries the brand’s entire range of products including menswear, womenswear, small leather goods, shoes, handbags, accessories and special collaboration products such as its recently unveiled line for Moncler Genius.

The store spans two addresses on the corner of Brewer and Wardour Street - part of a building constructed in the Victorian era. The Wardour Street space is a light and airy high-ceiling exhibition-like space with bright floors and modular aluminium shelving. It will showcase special collaborations and projects from the brand.

The Brewer Street side has been inspired by Saville Row tailor’s shops, with faux wood veneer on the walls and furniture, cabinets featuring interior pops of colour, brass trim and subtle JWA Anchor Logo details. On the lower level, thick cream-coloured, fluffy carpeting is surrounded by hanging fabrics in similar hues.

JW Anderson has a long history of championing diversity and queer culture through his approach to non-binary fashion, making Soho, with its diverse local and tourist populations, a natural location for the brand’s first flagship.

“Ever since I moved to London from Northern Ireland I have been in love with Soho. There is an incredible energy in the area. It feels quintessentially London to me,” founder and creative director of the label Jonathan Anderson said in a statement.

Photos courtesy of the brand

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Will casting diversity rule the SS20 fashion weeks?

European fashion designers have often been accused of conservative casting practices, favouring young Caucasian models in their campaigns and on their catwalks.
When official figures from the Runway Diversity Report by The Fashion Spot were released in March, New York proved to the most racially diverse of all the main fashion weeks, with nearly half of all models cast, 45.8 percent were of colour.
London, a champion of directional fashion, lacks catwalk diversity
In London, fashion week saw a decrease in racial diversity where non-white models made up 35.7 percent of runways castings. Milan saw an increase of 1.0 percent to 31.8 percent models of colour. Paris fashion week came in second place as the most racially diverse, casting a total of 39 percent models of colour, the largest increase of all fashion weeks of 6.6 percent.
According to the European shows that were examined in the report, only six featured size diversity. For Fall 2019, Paris, which had one non-straight-size model appearance in Spring 2019 and only three the season prior, had the most castings in this category of any European city (nine, an all-time high). Tommy Hilfiger’s show cast featured 7 plus-size models. The London catwalks featured the most plus-size castings (four, a record for the city) than any other European city. Two plus-size models — Daniel Lismore and Emma Breschi — walked at Vivienne Westwood.
In Milan there was not a single plus-size model seen on the official catwalk schedule.
In Spring 2019, casting of models who openly identify as transgender or non-binary reached an all-time high with 91 (1.23 percent) models in either category (83 trans women, eight non-binary models) walking in a total of 52 shows.
By contrast, Fall 2019 marks the first time that the number of trans and non-binary castings has shrunk. Only 56 (0.77 percent) openly transgender women and non-binary models walked in all of fashion month.
In terms of age diversity, London fell to the bottom of the pile with five over-50 castings: three at Vivienne Westwood, two at Simone Rocha — both longtime advocates for older model visibility.
In Milan, which last season had the most over-50 model appearances of any city outside of New York — and the most in its history — only six models age 50 or over walked the runway. That is three less than in Spring 2019, but considerably better than Fall 2018’s two. Donatella Versace and Daniela Gregis continued their practice of hiring over-50 models (Stephanie Seymour and Benedetta Barzini, respectively). Pat Cleveland, the season’s most-booked over-50 model, walked at Laura Biagiotti.
Of the 221 shows surveyed last season, Milan’s Daniela Gregis featured zero models of colour.
Image: courtesy of Fashion Scout

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